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What did you do with your Mini today?

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Did you repair or replace some worn out parts?
Add a new accessory or performance part? Give it a good cleaning?
Take it out for a drive on twisty back roads?

What did YOU do with your Classic Mini today?

Post your update below......




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Minisifixem2 Avatar
Minisifixem2 Michael S
Columbia, MD, USA   USA
Gave in a romping on some curvy roads, then tried to fix the clutch hang up

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Nice photo! What's going on with the clutch?

Skye



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Minisifixem2 Avatar
Minisifixem2 Michael S
Columbia, MD, USA   USA
Master and slave hydraulic leakage

zero250 Avatar
zero250 Jeff Steindler
Charleston, WV, USA   USA
I drove my mini van over to the doctor's house to work on his 5000 mile 1980 Rolls Royce...........

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Nice photo, Jeff! I love it when classic cars get a chance to visit each other winking smiley



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hunter2 Avatar
hunter2 Rick Higgs
Pitt Meadows, BC, Canada   CAN
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "LUCKY"
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "Lucky"
1973 Leyland Mini "ROO"
1975 Mini MkIII "Trailer Known As 'Hunny Pot"
Not today or yesterday...but since January when I obtained an OEM Cooper head (12G295) I have been working on the rebuilding of my 1098cc power unit in the 1973 Australian Mini Window Van.

First, I contacted Graham Russell in New South Wales to see if he could go over the head for me as I was heading to Australia in late April. He could, so I bussed from Brisbane to Sydney & up to Parramatta on the harbour ferry to spend 5 hours with Graham...head got hardened exhaust seats, all seats cut for larger Paul Ivey race valves & the valves, minor head cleanup under the seats, new RE 266 SS cam grind, faced lifters, +100 thou pistons/pins/rings and an RE intake with long runners for HIF44. My bag was really heavy on the trip back to Brisbane. I also got a set of Cooper S valve springs from Ken Nelson in Ipswich, Qld. All came home with me 8 weeks later.

Second, I approached Keith Calver about using his 1.4:1 steel rockers with the RE 266 SS cam and with Graham's agreement, I obtained the Calver ST rockers.

Next up, to get a new HIF44...have made inquiries with Burlen. After that, a light flywheel will complete the major bits.

Power unit to come out over the winter for complete rebuild with special attention to standard crank & rod preparation. Transmission will be rebuilt with pressurized layshaft, modified TR6 axle shaft/inner u-joints set up. Rally spring, standard clutch plate...


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hunter2 Avatar
hunter2 Rick Higgs
Pitt Meadows, BC, Canada   CAN
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "LUCKY"
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "Lucky"
1973 Leyland Mini "ROO"
1975 Mini MkIII "Trailer Known As 'Hunny Pot"
Here's the skinny on what I did to ROO before the ALCAN 5000 Rally:

ROO was an essentially bog standard 1098cc powered Leyland Australia Mini Window Van, 1¼” SU on std intake with std ‘pea shooter’ exhaust. It did have 8.4” discs & I had made some suspension mods (adj. trumpets, adj. dampers, adj. lower arms & tie-rods).

Interesting that all compression rings were found to be broken in half though the 1098 had great compression and burned no oil (up to 65 mph). Exhaust bracket to transmission was broken, exhaust downpipe lip was mostly missing and rubber u-joint had worn a fair excavation in the side of the downpipe.

Build started with complete cleanup of the engine bay & firewall. New epoxy primer, undercoat & paint. Then new steering rack was added. A refreshed/modified front subframe with gussets, captive nuts for the apron & sump guard and bracket for forward steady was installed.

Power unit rebuild included Graham Russell modified OEM 12G295 head with hardened exhaust seats & seats cut for larger Paul Ivey race valves, with some clean up under the seats. Head was completed with Cooper S valve springs, Keith Calver 1.4:1 steel rockers & uprated studs.

Cam installed was RE 266SS with RE faced lifters, carburettor was new HIF44 with a fixed needle in hanging profile & on std Metro intake (RE long runner intake & carb/filter would not fit under the cowl), exhaust by Maniflow Cooper Freeflow into twin box.

Block was over bored +100 for RE pistons/rings/pins on std rods/bolts (lock tabs tossed). Crank was mag tested for cracks, cleaned, found to be straight & all journals polished up std/std...and got new MED damper. Centre main strap was fitted. New oil pump, new duplex timing gears, new IWIS timing chains, new lightened back plate & flywheel, new orange clutch plate & spring.

Transmission was completely rebuilt as a hybrid with A+ main shaft, new shifter forks, new 2nd & 3rd gears, new competition layshaft & new close ratio lay gear...all new bearings, new competition baulk rings & central oil pickup. Final drive was new MS cross-pin diff with new bearings, bushings, seals & new AH/TR u-joints with zerk fittings.

Ignition by 123 distributor and Pertronix coil...interestingly, a new solenoid was dead out of the box, so the old solenoid was direct wired to starter with push button adjacent to ignition switch. Fuel was delivered by electronic pump – keyed to ignition but also separately switchable.

Apart from new upper arms, hubs/bearings/balljoints and servicing of brakes, the rear steel S drums were replaced with good used Minifins and GAZ adj. dampers were installed at all 4 corners with new road/rally cones. New drive flanges & rotors. Mini was laser aligned.

3rd relay was added (to relays for low & hi beams) for LED driving lights triggered by high beam switch & separately controlled. Lights were protected with SS mesh as was grill opening & lower valence openings. Splash guard for dizzy was fitted & sump guard was added.

Heater & auxilary rad were plumbed into the cooling system with new water pump & belt, Mr. Gasket 180 F thermostat (Gates 190 F failed to open on engine breakin). Oil cooler was added but laser thermometer suggested it was NOT needed. Hastings oil pressure gauge was added to dash (replacing the stock warning light at 7-10 psi). Under dash switch panel controlled fuel pump, LED driving light bar and power for VHF radio.

Steel bumper was fabricated to ‘save’ Clubbie bumper & to mount driving light bar.

Sadly in spit of the care taken in assembling the power unit it appears than an idler gear bearing failed after 2,500 mile. ROO was done at Johnsons Crossing, Alaska Hwy., Yukon when oil/filter change showed too many metal bits and suggesting the idler gear bearing failure. ROO was returned home following a beneficial agreement with the owners of a Jeep Rubicon entry who lived in Anmore, B.C. They had planned to ship their Jeep to Seattle for +$2,000 US. ROO came home on a U-Haul tow dolly for $233 (plus extra fuel) behind the Jeep.


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rogerotto Roger Williams
Collegeville, PA, USA   USA
Reconstructing my “wet” 1966 Cooper S.
Working on the rear subframe which is now off the body - one side at a time.
Radius arm and hydro bag removed along with a tight drum.
Next step is to sand and paint.
I will then attempt to flush the hydro bag, replace the bearings and refurb the brakes.
Then I need new hydro pipes and install the subframe.
Sounds easy but this the first time doing all these things.
Learning a lot and trying not to break anything!
Any tips and tricks?

hunter2 Avatar
hunter2 Rick Higgs
Pitt Meadows, BC, Canada   CAN
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "LUCKY"
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "Lucky"
1973 Leyland Mini "ROO"
1975 Mini MkIII "Trailer Known As 'Hunny Pot"
Hi Roger,

I have never worked on a hydro Mini...but good that you have serviceable bags. As for rear & front subframes I prefer sand blasting, epoxy primer & automotibe gloss black paint. I once prepped a brand new rear subframe that was then powder coated. Big mistake...barely 2 years later the powder coat was lifting off the metal with garden hose.

Check the pivot pins in the rear arms for corrosion...can be bad and is of course hidden. I would rebuild the trailing arms. Also check the parking brake quadrants...5/16" bolts with nyloc nuts (not tight) can replace the pins if corroded.

After you have the subframe ready for install use waxoyl or similar on the inside of the webs to protect against corrosion in those cavities. And never sieze or similar on bolting up the subframe to the heel board (amazed you seem to have got those bolts out...was waxoyl or other sprayed up inside the sills way back when?).

Rick

rogerotto Roger Williams
Collegeville, PA, USA   USA
Thanks for the feedback.

The handbrake quadrants look good. I may replace the nylon washers.

I started this project in 1993 and and am just getting back into it.
At that time I had to replace the subframe. It now shows some suface rust. The plan is to sand those areas and apply Eastwood rust inhibitor and gloss black subframe paint.

I believe I did rebuild the radius arms.

So... my biggest task will be removing the hub, cleaning things up and replace the wheel bearings and brake parts.
I will have to check my receipts to see if I bought and replaced them as well. Too much time has passed!

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