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Clutch Bleeding Issue/Problem

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TomGroh Tom G
Barrington, Illinois, USA   USA
Trying to bleed clutch. Here is what I did so far (with no progress): Opened nipple & closed-push pedal down & hold as I opened nipple & closed it. Then let up & pumped it some more, opened nipple & closed it....did this 5x's and NOT resolved. The Slave Cylinder is still not moving. I opened & pulled off the hydraulic line off the reservoir to see IF when pumping IS it squirting oil when pumping... NO ! All I see is a light sprinkle of oil...I imagine it should give a good squirt???
Am I correct in determining that the reservoir cylinder IS at fault and not capable of pumping pressure???

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hunter2 Avatar
hunter2 Rick Higgs
Pitt Meadows, British Columbia, Canada   CAN
1961 Austin Mini Countryman "LUCKY"
1962 Austin Mini Countryman "Lucky"
1973 Leyland Mini "ROO"
1975 Mini MkIII "Trailer Known As 'Hunny Pot" ~ For Sale ! ~
Not certain what line you disconnected...was it the hose to the slave cylinder?? If so, the rubber may have collapsed blocking the flow of fluid to the slave cylinder. If so, time for a new hose.

Otherwise, fluid bypassing the clutch plunger in the master cylinder. If so, time for a new clutch master.

zero250 Avatar
zero250 Jeff Steindler
Charleston, west virginia, USA   USA
I think the ONLY way to bleed ANYTHING is with a Mityvac-type bleeding tool.........The kit sold by Harbor Freight is about $22 and it looks like a superior tool., also........If you are trying to bleed any hydraulic system without one, you are using the wrong procedure.......That being said, I agree with what hunter2 says about the rubber flex-hose to the slave cylinder......I have had to replace that hose twice on my Cooper S.....The second one only lasted 6 years......

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DuncanCharlton Avatar
DuncanCharlton Duncan Charlton
Elgin, Texas, USA   USA
1931 Morgan 3 Wheeler "Gwenda (Sold)"
1967 Morgan 4/4 "Toly's Car"
1967 Unknown Unknown
1970 Mini Countryman    & more
I have seen clutch master cylinders that do not have a return spring in them, and if you try to bleed them by pushing the pedal while the bleeder is open, all you do is push the master piston down the bore while the fluid runs out the bleeder nipple. In that case, the pedal returns because it has its own spring. If that's the case, you may have to reverse pressurize the system from the slave bleeder valve to push the piston back to the top of its bore before proceeding. Once you're sure the piston is at the "rest" position, I suggest pressure bleeding.

I made a plate that fits across the filler opening of a master cylinder, with an ear on either side through which is run some 1/4" all-thread so that I can clamp it down hard against the filler opening by using another plate below. In the middle of the top plate is a Schrader valve from a tubeless tire. See attached photos. I put 10-15 psi of air in the master cylinder and then open the slave bleeder. I used it not long ago to bleed my Mini Countryman's clutch. It was a fiddle to get it to fit on the dual brake M/C, but it did the job. I like using this better than a vacuum bleeder because with the two vacuum setups I've used I can't always tell whether the bubbles in the line are coming from inside the system or coming through the bleeder nipple's threads or if the hose/nipple fit is too loose, causing tiny bubbles to pass through.


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