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New clutch not disengaging

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Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
Passing along this information for other Mini owners that might be having similar problems!

Original question:

Quote: Ever since the Van is back on the road with the supercharger, the clutch would slip if I would put my foot down. It turned out it was a bit greasy, although the seal seemed in perfect order. So, the seal was replaced by a fresh one, plate was replaced by an uprated version C-AHT596 as was the diaphragm changed to the 'grey' version C-AEG482. And then something weird happened.

The clutch would not fully disengage anymore. The travel was not enough for the plate to come fully free of the flywheel.

After bleeding the system and checking for air, we figured that, even at full throw, the slave cylinder just wouldn't be able to push the lever out far enough to get the clutch to fully dis-engage. After taking everything off and putting back the old diaphragm we concluded that the old one had even 1mm more travel before it would start to dis-engage.

In the end a 3mm washer was fitted behind the clutch bearing and now it does again fully dis-engage.

None of the people at the DIY shop, among them experts with years of British car experience, could give a definitive reason as to why all of a sudden the throw-out had lost several mm. Anyone here have an idea?

I've since driven a couple of hunderd km's without any issues, so it seems that fitting the washer has done the job. It still is odd though.

Answers:

Easy! You need a new clutch arm and plunger thingy. Quick bodge is to heat & bend the clutch arm.
Basically, the little ball joint at the end of the clutch arm is worn (Or the bit it mates to).
Used to have this problem a few times in the past.

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I've had a similar problem after an clutch upgrade.
To make a long story short, it turned out that the clevis pin of the clutch pedal was worn out as was the hole in the clutch pedal itself. I ended up welding the hole shut and redrilling it and, of course, replaced the clevis pin.
To see how much play you have, just slowly push the clutch pedal by hand until you feel the first resistance. The slack should be next to nothing.

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Yes, that ball can be very worn.
I got the welder out and layered a bit more metal on and then filed it to shape again :-).



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